This morning was the usual last day pack-up-before-traveling scramble – trying to fit everything back into the two bags each that we brought. It all went in, though, and after a quick side trip for some baguettes and coffees we were checked out and on our way back to the metro.
Before long we were back at Chris’s place where they were very happy to see Sharon, a reunion of about twenty years as we think the last time she had an in-person visit was when our kids were all very small. Sharon got the apartment tour, we had some more coffee, and then we all headed back out into the city.
The walk over to Hotel National des Invalides takes a little less than half an hour and the weather held for us so we had a nice stroll. It turns out that Chris’s family had a hand in the restoration of Napoleon’s dome so he was keen to give us a tour.
Les Invalides was originally created under Louis XIV as a vast hospital for war vets, a function it still in part retains today. But the gold-gilt dome which you can see from every viewpoint in Paris covers Napoleon’s tomb, and constitutes its own monument.
Inside this section, in addition to Napoleon’s coffin and the tombs of other military leaders, there is also a set of ten relief panels describing Napoleon’s accomplishments in heroic terms with allusions to the Caesars of Rome. It is opulent and impressive and a little scary all at the same time.
The grounds are also home to chapels and military administration buildings, and we spent time wandering about and admiring the scale and history of it all. Apparently it also constitutes a major architectural masterpiece as well!
After we completed our tour, we wandered back to the apartment in a very light drizzle. We enjoyed some coffee, baguette and cheese and a little more visiting before it was time to say good-bye and head back to the metro.
Technically this is also a travel day – from the Eiffel area we cut across the city and found our way to Gare de Lyon to find our train to Avignon. It was a busy station! But there were informations folks everywhere and we quickly found our gate. Apparently there would be no delay due to the strike, so being plenty early we had short wait to board.
Our first train ride in Europe was on a high speed rail TGV train that went directly to Avignon. And it is fast. At top speed we were around 320km/h. The countryside is beautiful, the definition of pastorale, with sheep and stone buildings all along the way.
We arrived in Avignon right on schedule, less than three hours later, and after a little confusion we found a taxi who immediately knew where we wanted to go.
La Banasterie is a bed and breakfast inside the walled city where the streets are all cobblestone and there’s about one foot clearance for cars on each side. The cab literally stops beside a door in a stone alley and announced our arrival.
We had texted ahead as requested and our hostess Veronique showed us in. The place is a lovely apartment tucked in very close to the Palace of Popes. We have a small kitchen/living room separate from the bedroom, and a bathroom with a reasonably sized shower (an issue in Paris). Veronique showed us where everything is, and then – despite being well past check-in time – asked us if she wanted her to arrange dinner.
Dinner turned out to be right next door at La Coin Cache, a small place with an excellent menu. I enjoyed a superbly done beef and potato plate and Sharon had an excellent rizotto. A really wonderful way to end the day.
We turned in a short while later, looking forward to visiting a castle tomorrow, and finally meeting up with Mimi, who will be coming in from Barcelona.