We were up much earlier this morning, as our train was scheduled to leave Avignon at 7:40am. We were up at 6am, and ready to go in time, and then two taxis showed up for us at 7:05am – we still don’t know why.

We were at the station early, and the epic train day began. The trip from Avignon to Nice was via another high speed TGV train and was very comfortable. Becuase Mimi had booked her tickets separately from us, she had a seat in a different car, but we quickly learned that the snack car was between us, and we spent most of time together there.

After our 2h 40m ride we got off at Nice, found our next platform and had enough time to pick up some snacks along the way. The total wait was only an hour, but when the train came in we were unfortunately placed between train embarkation points and therefore at the back of the crush of people trying to get on (this section had no reservations).

To make a long story short, we missed that train. I confess my heart sped up a bit at this point, but Mimi, cool as a cucumber, just whipped out her phone and confidently announced that the next one would be along in half an hour, and might even get us to Ventimiglia in time to catch our original connecting train. It helps, apparently, to consider trains as buses in Europe – another one will be along shortly.

Sure enough, the next one came by 30 minutes later and we were able to catch it. This train was a lot more like a subway ride, with many people standing and less comfortable seating. We also had our first real run-in with pickpockets on this ride, when Sharon caught a girl unzipping her purse while another girl tried to engage us. Nothing lost and the girls got off right away at the next stop.
In Ventimiglia we had another short turn-around but the tracks and routes were clearly marked and we had no trouble getting to the train to Genova. This, though, was our least comfortable and longest segment. The car was clearly much older and not ventilated except by a nearby window, and as the day got warmer the lack of air circulation was more apparent.

Two and a half hours later we were very glad to change to our last train, which was again a nicely appointed newer train with climate controls and enough space for our gear. We were even able to enjoy a game of 5 Crowns along the way!

We came in finally to La Spezia right at the appointed 6:10pm time, somewhat tired from the trip and ready to find our Air B&B condo. We called the property manager, walked ten minutes from the station, and someone was there to show us in.
La Spezia is more of an industrial town so it isn’t “pretty” like a lot of our stops, but we have no problem with our accommodations. Even larger than our place in Avignon, there is a kitchen, living room, bathroom and two bedrooms with high ceilings and a washing machine! We took advantage of the latter immediately, and after a couple of YouTube videos that distinguished the features of this model, we had a load going.
Next, the quest for pizza! We had had one recommendation for La Pia Centenaria, which has apparently been around for almost 150 years, but when we arrived it appeared that the line was also almost that long. But on the way there we also spotted Bella Napoli Pizzeria which had good Google juice so we decided to give it a try.
This pizzaria was also doing a booming business but takeout orders were brisk so we decided to order a couple of pies to go. Sharon said she got her evening’s entertainment just watching the delivery people interact with the man at the counter, who was also engaged with the kitchen, new customers (like us) and phone orders. And it would be safe to say that although everyone was quite polite, they were also not shy with each other 🙂
Back at the condo we tucked into our dinner and pulled out a schedule for local trains for tomorrow. We’re planning an easier day and hope to get some great weather to take iin the Cinque Terre!
